Kym Pokorny shares 'Going Dry' suggestions

Last week, in The Oregonian's HGNW (Homes & Gardens of the Northwest) section, garden writer Kym Pokorney referenced Joy Creek Nursery co-owner Maurice Horn and other garden experts in her article "Going Dry: The right plants and practices can tame the garden's thirst." The piece, about drought-tolerant plants, can be accessed on the OregonLive.com website.

Pokorny mentioned several related, upcoming Joy Creek classes in the article:

• The new Western garden, Paul Bonine, co-owner, Xera Plants, Sunday, July 29

• Gardening in dry shade, Richie Steffen, coordinator of horticulture for the Elisabeth C. Miller Botanical Garden and a committee member of Great Plant Picks, Sunday, Aug. 26

• Ground covers for dry shade or hot sun, Ramona Wulzen, Sunday, Sept. 2

• Low-water gardening, Maurice Horn, co-owner, Joy Creek Nursery, Sunday, Sept. 23

For more garden-related news and information, be sure to check out Kym Pokorny's blog Dig in with Kym

(Note: The graphic shown in this blog entry is courtesy of The Oregonian and may be downloaded in PDF form at the OregonLive.com link above.)

© 2007 Joy Creek Nursery

Planting Summer Containers

By Nadine Black

This is not your usual "how to" article. I am going to give you some factual information, but this is really about getting your imagination going.

When you close your eyes and imagine a container for your summer garden, what do you see? When I ask myself this question, my answer seems to be a regurgitation of what I've just seen in the latest magazine I've looked at. I want to break away from that habit. How about you?

OK, where do we start? I think, with the purpose of the pot. It is to enhance and excite my outdoor living space for the summer. What size do I want? Will it rest on a pedestal? Do I want bright colors? Is it for sun or shade? How do I water it? Do I want to put plants in to extend the interest beyond the summer. Yes, this is a pop quiz! I always make my customers consider their answers to these questions before the fun starts. You'd be amazed how much time and money you can save by doing a little "homework."

I'm going to do two pots in detail and then make some suggestions for others. The first pot is a large (40 inch) terra cotta pot. It will be placed in partial shade. The pot will be seen occasionally during the winter since it will be difficult to move. This means some of the plants must be perennial and have some winter interest.

The most important thing, however, is that it be "smashing" during the summer. The anchor plant in this pot will be Acer japonica 'Orangeola' which has orange tipped new growth and sunset orange fall color. It is also a slow growing dwarf and will live in this pot for a long time. Next is Fuchsia 'Thalia' (above) with its fire-cracker orange blooms that continue all summer. The foliage on this plant is bronze/burgundy.

In two places, I am planting five Heuchera 'Marmalade' (at left) whose foliage echoes the orange tints of the maple. This plant is evergreen, so it will have some presence during the winter. Now, for the "smashing" part. To me, great impact means lots of contrast. In this case, I mean color contrast. The relatively "blendy" color combination I've described so far will become enlivened with the addition of citron yellow Coleus and bright pink 'Pink Madness' petunias. Finally, right at the base of the maple, I'm planting a blood-red Rex-type Begonia.

The second pot will be a hanging basket for sun. I'll begin with Verbena 'Homestead Purple' which loves heat and blooms all summer. Be sure to groom it regularly to keep the flowers coming. Fuchsia 'Lena' (at right) with its purple and white flowers, echoes the verbena. (You may think fuchsias are shade plants but they do fine in sun in the Pacific Northwest as long as adequate water is provided.) In order to provide some texture variation, I'm adding Ajuga 'Catlin's Giant.' This ground-cover has a wide burgundy leaf and sports purple-blue flower spikes. For added interest, I'm going to slip in a dwarf conifer called Cryptomeria japonica 'Compacta.' This evergreen has gray green summer foliage that turns a copper color in winter.

So, to review, create contrast either with texture or color or both; try plant groups you don't normally associate with containers, i.e., house plants, dwarf trees, conifers and shrubs; go tropical or Mediterranean (you know you've wanted to!) - bananas, palms, cannas, echiverias, and agaves lend an air of mystery and the feeling of being in a different place.

Here are some practical considerations. If you are using perennials and plan to make the container permanent, mix compost into your potting soil. Potting soil is sterile and provides no nutrition to the plants. Use a balanced slow release fertilizer for basic needs and a bloom booster for consistent color. In order to be sure the smaller pots or hanging pots don't dry out, mix a moisture-holding polymer such as Soil Moist into your soil before planting. Finally, enjoy your containers from the planning to the final product.

Nadine Black tried on many hats in our industry - from private gardener to wholesale plant sales - before she discovered that her real passion was helping retail customers create gardens. At Joy Creek Nursery, she has found a new set of hats, managing retail sales, conducting on-site garden consultations, and teaching workshops. In addition, she has acquired the Lifetime Certified Oregon Nursery Professional certificate from the Oregon Association of Nurseries.

© 2007 Joy Creek Nursery

Photo: Joy Creek Photo Archive © all rights reserved

Dividing Perennials

By Sheila Rabideaux

Early spring is the optimum time to divide summer and fall blooming perennials. At this time of year plants are exiting dormancy and the gardener can be assured new divisions will be quick to produce new roots and establish themselves.

The emergence of shoot tips from the ground will be the gardener’s first clue that it is time to grab a shovel and spade. Divisions are the easiest and fastest way to vegetatively produce new plant material.

There are three main advantages to dividing plants. First, rapidly spreading perennials need thinning to keep them under control. Second, dividing tired, old plants, results in healthier specimens with more foliage and flowers. And the best reason, extra plant material can be used to fill in empty garden spaces or to share with friends and fellow plant-nuts.

Unless the ground is fairly moist, it is ideal to water the plant 1-2 days before dividing it. Lift the entire root system of the parent plant out of the ground. You will find a sharp spade and garden fork useful during this process. Fibrous rooted perennials, like monardas or asters, can be separated by hand or cut and sawed into pieces. Fleshy rooted plants, like hostas or daylilies, may have to be washed in order to get a good view of their underground structures. Make sure each division includes a piece of crown that has eyes or buds as well as good roots. Tuberous or rhizomatous perennials, like dahlias and cannas, can be sliced with a sharp pruner or knife. If large wounds are created it is recommended to dust with sulfur to decrease losses from disease or insects. The divided plant should be planted immediately at its original depth in prepared soil or potted in a container for later placement. Be sure to water all divisions in well.

Sheila Rabideaux joined our staff as propagator in 2005. With a degree in horticulture from the University of Wisconsin, Madison, she came to Oregon to find work in the wholesale plant industry. When she first visited Joy Creek Nursery, she told us that she wanted to work for us and happily we were able to make that happen. Sheila's passion has been propagating woody plants, especially conifers and viburnums. She also enjoys grafting.

© 2007 Joy Creek Nursery